Kalaheo, Poipu, Waimea Valley, and Kekaha

Our first stop this morning was in Kalaheo at our Uncle Gus’ house. Gus is in his 90s, we think, and still lives in our grandparents’ home, where Kauai relatives and friends would gather each year to celebrate the New Year. The house is on a hillside with a sweeping view of the coastal plain all the way to the sea.  The soil is fertile, and both pineapples and sugarcane once grew here. Now the area is largely sub-divided for houses that have sprung up like mushrooms after rain.

Our grandparents, whom we called “Ojiji” and “Obaba,” passed away years ago; they are buried in Lawai, the next town over from Kalaheo, so we visited their grave next.

Then we drove on through Koloa Town to Poipu, which is known for its beach and resort hotels. Our destination was a remote beach we discovered by poring over maps of the Island. The paved road ends at Shipwreck Beach, which fronts the Hyatt Regency, and we bumped along on the dirt road for a couple of miles through this type of scenery:
We were rewarded at the end when we arrived at Maha’ulepu. This stretch of sand often shelters the Hawaiian monk seal, Monachus schauinslandi, and we were fortunate to see two individuals sunning themselves and resting on the sand. Hawaiian monk seals are among the most endangered of all the seals; it is estimated that less than 1400 individuals survive.

Shortly before noon, we headed back to Waimea and drove up the Valley to visit with Mrs. Ruth Cassel, an old friend.  Ruth’s husband Jim passed away a year and a half ago, but she still lives on their farm, right next to the River and at the end of the road.  As we ate lunch, we caught up with each other’s lives and talked about what old friends and neighbors have been up to.

In the late afternoon, we drove back to the Cottages, then decided to visit Kekaha again.  We meandered through streets I remembered because I had biked through town so many times as a child, but on the Mana side, there is a whole section of streets and houses that were not there forty years ago.  Finally, we stopped at Kekaha Beach to test the waters.  The ocean here is always warm and salty, but the bottom is rocky and there is often a strong undertow, so we didn’t stay long.  On our way back to Waimea, we passed our old house and saw the new owner out working in the yard, so we stopped to introduce ourselves.  I’m so glad she said she loves the place!  I still think of the house as my home.

Kokee and Waimea

My sister was up around 4 this morning, to marvel at the very black night sky and brilliant stars, but I slept in until 6 am.  That’s early for a vacation wake-up call, and it wasn’t even 8 am when we started our day of sightseeing around West Kauai, the area we’d grown up in.

From the Cottages, we took the back road through Kekaha up to Waimea Canyon and stopped at the first lookout. Don’t you think the Canyon is as spectacular as the tourist brochures promise!
We continued on to the Koke’e Museum where we found a large trail map posted outside. We decided to hike the Water Tank Trail, hoping that the indications it was well-maintained might be true. Here are some photos of tropical flowers and trees, which I won’t attempt to identify for you. I believe the bright red flower is in the genus Passiflora.

On our way back down the mountain, we saw a sign for the YWCA’s Camp Sloggett, so we walked to the entrance where I took this photo of their peace pole. All of us went to summer camp here when we were children.

When we tried to get a view of the Kalalau Valley, it was so foggy that we didn’t even bother getting out of the car. However, we drank in the views at the Puu Hinahina Lookout.

These are my best shots of the Canyon from this vantage point:

Back in Waimea, we parked across from the Community Hall, where we all went to Japanese Language School. The gold trees were in bloom, and in the distance, we could see the spire of the Waimea Foreign Church.  I don’t know the scientific name for the tree; it’s possiblyTabebuia donnell-smithii in the family Bignoniaceae, native to Mexico and Central America.

After refreshing ourselves with shave ice at Jojo’s we proceeded on to the Waimea River Mouth, where there is a small park. Young paddlers were practicing short sprints.

The River now carries a lot of silt down from the mountains and is very shallow at its mouth. I found it hard to imagine Waimea as a bustling port city in the nineteenth century, but a booklet we bought at the Koke’e Museum was very informative on the town’s early history. The East Side of the Island, where the county seat, Lihue, is now located, only began to be developed as the West Side’s commercial boom was subsiding.