Visiting Cuba Day Four

Locale:  Cuba is the largest island in the Caribbean, with a land mass of a little over 42,000 square miles and about 3,500 miles of coastline.  The main island is 780 miles long and 119 miles across at its widest point, 19 miles across at its narrowest.  Today we traveled from the north shore to the south.  Administratively, Cuba is divided into fifteen provinces; we’ve now been to three of the fifteen (we will not visit the five eastern ones, which include Guantánamo, probably the place name most familiar to Americans).

Weather:  70s.  Cold front with drizzle.

Itinerary: Cayo Coco south to Morón, south to Ciego de Ávila, west on Carretera Central to Jatbonico, west to Sancti Spíritus, southwest to Trinidad

Overnight: Hotel Las Brisas, Ancón Peninsula

Excursions: Birding at Cueva del Jabalí, buffet breakfast at hotel, birding on Cayo Coco near Hotel Tryp, lunch at hotel bar, long bus ride to Ancón Peninsula, check in at hotel, dinner at paladar Davimart

Habitats: Desert scrub, farmland, mangroves, urban areas.

Bird Species (partial listing, by family): Least Grebe (Tachybaptus dominicus), White-Crowned Pigeon (Patagioenas leucocephala), Key West Quail Dove (Geotrygon chrysia), Clapper Rail (Rallus crepitans), Long-billed Dowitcher (Limnodromus scolopaceus), Solitary Sandpiper (Tringa solitaria), Lesser Yellowlegs (Tringa flavipes), Yellow-Crowned Night Heron (Nyctanassa violacea), White Ibis (Eudocimus albus), Cuban Tody (Todus multicolor), Crested Caracara (Caracara cheriway), Cuban Vireo (Vireo gundlachii), Cuban Crow (Corvus nasicus), Red-Legged Thrush (Turdus plumbeus), Cape May Warbler (Setophaga tigrina), Palm Warbler (Setophaga palmarum), Oriente Warbler (Teretistris fornsi)

Other Species: Blue-Headed Anole (Anolis allisoni) and Knight’s Anole (Anolis equestris cyaneus)

Guides and Driver: Angel, David, Liu and Carlos

Observations:  Supposedly, the “Cave of the Wild Boar” is a trendy disco!

The mini-pizza I ate for lunch at the bar was quite tasty (surprisingly, I suppose).

We are staying at yet another all-inclusive resort.  Our room is on the second floor and quite nice; however, the water pressure disappeared, so I took a sponge bath instead of showering.

Our welcome drink at Davimart was made with miel (honey).

Reflections: The roads in Cuba seem to be in good shape — maybe even more so than our roads in Massachusetts, which at this point in the year are riddled with potholes from winter weather. Our bus is Chinese-made, by the Yutong Bus Company; we see many of these buses, which all look fairly new.  Of course the American cars from the 1950s which we see everywhere are a Cuban phenomenon, and I have to say, they are quite the sight.  We also see European cars, from French, Italian, and German manufacturers, as well as the Russian Ladas, and there are Japanese-made cars as well.  It is difficult for individual Cubans to own their own automobiles, and horse-drawn vehicles are a common sight.

I have noticed quite a bit of trash by the roadsides though, and even on the beaches.  Maybe as Cuba becomes more developed, we’ll start to see Earth Day clean-ups as we have in the States (certainly we Americans ought to do better, and think about recycling and waste more often than once a year).

Images:

I am not sure how to interpret these sculptures of cows outside our hotel room.

The beach is visible in the background, behind the pool.

Mangrove forests are an ecosystem of high biological diversity.

Semi-feral dogs are a common sight in Cuba.

Visiting Cuba Day One

Locale: Cuba’s third largest city, Camagüey is the capital of Camagüey Province.  The main square in Camagüey, currently named Ignacio Agramonte Park in honor of the Cuban Revolutionary War hero, was built in 1528.  Unlike other Spanish colonial cities with their wide boulevards and spacious plazas, Camaguey’s old section is characterized by narrow, twisting, maze-like streets.  It has its charm, though, with its wrought-iron windows and red-tile roofs.  In 2008 the city’s historic center was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site.  Camaguey is also known as “The City of Churches” because it has more of these edifices than any other Cuban city.  Another name for the city would be “The City of the Jars” due to the significance of the clay pot or tinajón, used for various purposes, such as to capture rain water.  Clay pots, from the small and decorative to the very large, are everywhere.  Another of the city’s claims to fame is for being the birthplace of Cuba’s national poet, Nicolás Guillén.

Weather:  80s.  Sunny.

Events:  Breakfast at Air Margaritaville, rendezvous at the Miami International Airport Hotel reception desk at 11:45, check in at American Airlines, lunch at La Carreta near the departure gate, flight at 2:45, arrive Cuba 4 pm, customs and immigration, change dollars, short bus ride to hotel, walking tour of historic Camagüey, dinner at La Campana de Toledo, Plaza San Juan de Dios 18 (named for the bell which hangs in its courtyard, brought to Cuba from Toledo in Spain).

Itinerary: Charter flight on AA from Miami to Aeropuerto Internacional Ignacio Agramonte

Guides and Driver: Angel, CJ (Marazul-Miami), David, Liudmys and Carlos

Overnight: Gran Hotel Camagüey

Bird Species (partial listing): Eurasian Collared Dove (Streptopelia decaocto)

Observations: The hotel dates from the colonial period; our room, on the second floor, has high ceilings and a balcony overlooking the street.  It is clean and comfortable, and flipping through the stations on the TV, I couldn’t find any Cuban broadcasts.

I’ve seen flamenco in Andalucía, its birthplace, and I must say that the flamenco dancers we saw tonight, two young women and a young man, were excellent.  Their backup musicians were also very good, and I decided to buy their DVD (the group is called Andarte).

Reflections: We are a group of fourteen:  Marti (Sacramento CA) and me (North Brookfield MA), Tom (Northern California), Lee (Austin TX), Marsha (Woodland CA), Ann (Woodland CA), Kate (Burien WA), Beverly (Lee’s Summit MO), Wendy (San Leandro CA), Donna (Seattle WA), Marilyn (North Oaks MN), Warren (North Oaks MN), Russ (Waterville ME), and Suzi (Waterville ME).  So glad to meet you all, and I’m looking forward to our time together!

We are birding with Victor Emanuel Nature Tours; most, if not all, of the group have traveled with VENT before — I’d say that’s an endorsement of the company and its products.

Traveling to Cuba as a tourist is still forbidden by the US Department of the Treasury.  Our tour has been arranged by International Expeditions, as a People to People Cultural and Educational Exchange, which is allowed under Section 515.565 (search for Title 31, Money and Finance: Treasury, Part 515—Cuban Assets Control Regulations, Educational Activities).

Images:

We arrived at the international airport in Camagüey.

This is the view from the balcony of our room at the Gran Hotel, Calle Maceo 67.