Hart Prairie Day Three

Protect, Transform, Inspire:  (Neil) Probably caused by an unattended campfire, the Schultz Fire burned 15,000 acres of the adjacent Coconino National Forest in June 2010, at an eventual cost of $150 million (subsequent flooding due to the monsoon’s effects on denuded soil also caused damage).  What can we do to prevent such costly forest fires?  One answer is to look at how we log forests.

Currently, forests are logged by manual methods, and the commercial returns on the investment have been minimal.  Because the Forest Service agency is part of the Department of Agriculture, forests have traditionally been considered resources for harvesting, as if they were agricultural crops.  In current practice, the Forest Service hires logging companies to cut trees on public land; they tell the loggers what trees not to cut and then the loggers go in and take out the rest (the trees to save are marked with a special, expensive brand of orange paint).  This process has not worked well, due to a number of factors: technical issues such as equipment ill-matched to the local infrastructure, generally low prices for soft wood products, difficulties in timber processing, and lack of experienced logging personnel.

There has to be a better way.  The Conservancy is experimenting with using digital tools, such as the Digital Restoration Guide, which uses an iPad to digitally mark trees.  Computers in the cabs of the logging vehicles make it much easier and quicker to collect data, which in turn, helps to better manage the forest.  These technologies allow the Forest Service to increase the acreage of forest which can be cut while at the same time reducing costs.  The Conservancy’s prior partnerships with the Forest Service facilitated the adoption of the Four Forest Restoration Initiative.

Perhaps the irony in all this is that logging operations are now integral to forest restoration.  That seems almost counter-intuitive, until one considers a business model focused on ecological services: forests should not necessarily be valued primarily for the extractive worth of their timber.

(Selena) In Arizona, water issues are hugely important.  After successful experiences in the international arena, TNC introduced the concept of water funds in Arizona with the creation of the Salt-Verde Water Fund.  Basically, a water fund is based on the premise that ecosystems provide financial benefits to people, and that investments by downstream users will improve conditions upstream.  The Arizona fund is intended to support projects that invest in both water quality and quantity.

The Salt and Verde Rivers, part of the Colorado River Basin, provide a substantial portion of the state’s population and economy with water, specifically, the greater Phoenix area and the communities and farms upstream.  In the Verde Valley, 30 ditches deliver water to landowners throughout the valley.  Working with the ditch managers and landowners, the Conservancy helped install new digital monitoring systems for two Diamond S Ditch gates, which in initial tests worked very well to adjust water levels automatically.  Hence the technology was installed at additional ditches:  Zach Hauser can now adjust the flow of Eureka Ditch with digital gate technology.  Hauser, a third generation farmer in the Valley, has also agreed to install drip lines which direct water to a plant’s root instead of flooding a whole field, an irrigation technique that can use half or less of the water that once left the river.

Locale:  About a dozen miles north of Flagstaff, at the edge of the Coconino National Forest, is the Sunset Crater Volcano and the Wupatki Pueblo ruins, national monuments administered by the National Park Service, to “perpetuate this geologic landscape that preserves increasingly rare habitat for native plants and animals and to protect past human developments and their relationships to the land.”

As its name implies, the thousand-foot Sunset Crater is the remnant of a recently active volcano; we cannot say for sure, but geologists believe that the eruption happened around 1066 (an easy-to-remember date from European history).  In concert with the eruption, two lava flows, the Kana-a and the Bonito, destroyed everything in their paths and created fantastic natural sculptures which tourists gawk at even now.  I wondered why the crater was named sunset; supposedly, the afterglow of the eruption, caused by red and yellow cinders spouting from the crater and falling on the rim, reminded people of a sunset (I’m not sure I believe this story).

The Wupatki Pueblo ruins indicate that people lived in the shadow of the volcano in the 1100s, for at least a few generations, in a landscape of scarce water and temperature extremes, before they migrated outward to more hospitable regions of the Colorado Plateau.  Archaeologists have named the cultural traditions of the area the “Sinagua,” from the Spanish term for “without water.”  Due to the limitations imposed by water scarcity, this culture thrived on trade and exchange.  For example, houses in the Wupatki Pueblo could be built in the Anasazi style, but might be furnished with different styles of pottery and textiles.

Weather: High 90, Low 51.  Sunny

Creatures:  Steller’s Jay (Cyanocitta stelleri), Antelope (Antilocapra americana)

Itinerary: FR 151 to US 180 to Schultz Pass Road to US 89 to Flagstaff to US 180 and return

Excursions: Schultz Pass, Sunset Crater, Wupatki Pueblo Village

Speakers:

  • Neil Chapman, TNC, On the Schultz Fire and Logging Operations (morning)
  • Selena Pao, TNC, Managing Water Resources in the Verde Valley (evening)

Reflections:  I have never seen anything like the devastation wrought by this fire.  Of course, living as I do east of the 100th meridian, multi-acre forest fires are not an everyday occurrence.  Though it is now generally accepted that the northeastern Native American tribes set fires to clear forest undergrowth, by definition these were controlled burns.  Perhaps our forests suffered comparable damage from the 1938 hurricane, and to a much lesser extent, from more recent tornadoes and ice storms.

I grew up in Hawaii, which means that volcanoes and lava flows signify home to me!  Where I live now, in New England, the landscape has been shaped by the same igneous processes (as well as by glaciation), but in different ways.  Our rocks are granite, the stuff of continental crust. Granite is felsic, intrusive; it cools slowly, resulting in a coarse-textured, light-colored rock.  Basalt is mafic, extrusive; it cools quickly, resulting in a fine-grained, dark-colored rock.  Standing here in northern Arizona, so far from my childhood home, I was amazed to see basaltic rock, the same stuff that forms the Hawaiian Islands.

Images:

Orange paint on the trees signifies "Do not cut"

Orange paint on the trees signifies “Do not cut”

Devastation caused by the Schultz Fire in June 2010

Devastation caused by the Schultz Fire in June 2010

Sunset Crater Cinder Cone Volcano

Sunset Crater Cinder Cone Volcano

Hiking along the Lava Flow Trail

Hiking along the Lava Flow Trail

Remains of lava flow

Remains of lava flow

The desert stretches for miles in the distance

The desert stretches for miles in the distance

View of Wupatki Pueblo ruins from the Visitor Center

View of Wupatki Pueblo ruins from the Visitor Center

Ball court at the Wupatki National Monument

Ball court near the blowhole, at the Wupatki National Monument

Hart Prairie Day Two

Protect, Transform, Inspire:  This year, celebrating its 50th year, TNC Arizona looks backward at past accomplishments and forward to the future.  The state chapter is committed to affirming core values and aligning goals with its mission.  In Arizona, protecting water resources is of particular urgency.  Hart Prairie with its riparian willows, high altitude wet meadows, and mixed conifer forests, is a locus of significant forest restoration research, in particular its Ponderosa pine forest functioning as a demonstration plot for the larger Four Forest Restoration project (the Forest Service has committed to clearing 30,000 acres per year for the next decade or so).

What is the ecological purpose of a forest?  For one thing, it functions to protect water sources:  northern Arizona forests supply 30% of the water for more than 2 million citizens.  So how do we ensure we have healthy forests?  While this might be considered a “new forestry school” belief, a healthy Ponderosa pine forest is fire-adapted and has about 15-40 trees per acre (as opposed to many areas, where the density is now more like 500 trees per acre, due to fire suppression and lack of management).  When Ponderosa grows thickly, the forest sucks up groundwater and also becomes a candidate for the intense and dangerous crown fires.  With a grant from the US Forest Service, TNC treated 70 acres at the Prairie by thinning the smaller trees; groundwater levels were measured before and after.

The Preserve’s prize Bebb willows (Salix bebbiana) are not a rare species (supposedly, we have them here in New England), but the Hart Prairie community is unique because it is so large.  Most Bebb willows grow in stands of under 50 trees; here there are more than 1300!  This willow species is not particularly attractive (I totally agree that the trees look gnarled and misshapen), but it is an indicator species for a healthy wet meadow.  The willows, which are dioecious, grow from seed, and TNC has tried planting seeds to keep the population either stable or increasing, and has also tried fencing them in to keep them from being munched on by herbivores.

Locale:  The Museum of Northern Arizona was founded in 1928 by Harold and Mary-Russell Ferrell Colton, a wealthy Philadelphia family with a close connection to Dick and Jean Wilson, the benefactors who donated the Hart Prairie Preserve to TNC.  The Museum focuses on the Colorado Plateau: its volcanic geology, its paleontology specimens, and the material remains left by the successive human cultures which inhabited the area.  The collection is also extensive in terms of ethnology, with a focus on the Native American groups who have lived in the area for centuries: the Hopi, Navajo, Zuñi, and some Apache.  Contemporary artisans from these tribes are proud of their traditions, but by incorporating their personal experiences into their work, they enrich their cultures and make them accessible to all; a striking example is the wrap-around mural in the Museum’s Kiva Room.  Being herself an artist and a national leader in arts education, founder Mary Colton clearly understood the value of the arts; thus, the Museum has continued to acquire and exhibit the work of Native American and Anglo-American artists whose work is connected to the Colorado Plateau.  On display this summer are landscape paintings by Curt Walters, beautiful oils of the Grand Canyon and other southwest vistas.  Of course I was mesmerized by the jewelry on display; I am particularly fond of silver and turquoise, and the museum has some outstanding pieces by contemporary Native American artists.

Weather: High 80, Low 54.  Partly cloudy

Creatures: Western Tanager (Piranga ludoviciana), Elk (Cervus canadensis)

Itinerary: FR 151 to US 180 to Flagstaff and return

Excursions:  Hart Preserve Bebb Willows, Museum of Northern Arizona

Speakers:

  • Mark Ryan, TNC, Arizona State Chapter Projects (morning)
  • Phyllis Wolfskill, MNA Docent, Guided Museum Tour (afternoon)
  • George Bain, Rock Climbing in the Grand Canyon (evening)

Reflections:  At the Museum, we were allowed to touch a meteorite, which, when you think about it, is one of the strangest things on earth, because it is truly extra-terrestrial!  I was also delighted to hold a dinosaur thigh bone (huge) and mastodon tooth (huge), and I marveled at the relative weights of the volcanic rocks (pumice is as light as air, almost).  The gift shop at the Museum was particularly enticing, and I ended up buying a pair of turquoise earrings (for myself, because this stone is lovely).

I wish I could have had climbing adventures with George, but I am afraid of heights.  I started to feel dizzy even as I was looking at his slides.

Images:

Stand of Bebb willows

Stand of Bebb willows

Large Bebb Willow

Large Bebb willow

Replica of dinosaur skeleton

Replica of dinosaur skeleton at MNA