Not having slept more than an hour or so Thursday night on the plane, I awoke late this morning, and then we decided to continue exploring Ferrara and engaging in the activity that tourists in Italy are most anxious to experience: eating Italian food. Our first stop was the bar at the Castello Estense for coffee and Italian pastry — that’s my favoritate breakfast in the States and I was quite pleased with the Italian version! There’s a great view of the square from the castle balcony; in fact, I’m told that the Este rulers used to relax there and watch boat races. And no, I’m not going to include any photos of food in these posts.

To one side of the castle is the Piazza Savonarola with its statue of Girolamo Savonarola, the fiery Dominican preacher and Ferrara native son, who was eventually condemned by the Pope and burned at the stake in Renaissance Florence. Today, the preacher oversees the Saturday market, which features row upon row of vendors hawking everything from potted plants to trinkets to handicrafts.

Statue of Savonarola, Ferrara

Construction of the Town Hall was begun in 1243; it remained the Este family residence until the 16th century, when the court moved to the castle.

Palazzo Municipale, Ferrara

I think this is the entrance to the court palace. The three flags are probably the flags of Italy, the European Union, and the Comune di Ferrara.

Arch with Niccolò III and Duke Borso, Ferrara

Saturday is the Jewish Sabbath; for many pious Jews, keeping the Sabbath means that no work can be performed, not even opening doors. Joseph (left) has greeted the doorman, who is probably not Jewish.

Jewish Synagogue, Ferrara

When they were driven out of Spain (1492), Portugal (1498), and Germany (1530), many Jews found a haven in Ferrara. The ruling Este family welcomed them and the Jewish community grew strong and prosperous in the tolerant climate. Now often associated with such African-American enclaves as Watts and the South Bronx in the United States, the word “ghetto” is Italian and referred to the section of an Italian city where Jews were segregated. In this narrow street (photo below), doors and passageways were constructed in maze-like fashion, to enable Jews to escape persecution by confusing the Gentiles pursuing them.

Ghetto, Ferrara

We are now in the Renaissance part of the city, the Addizione Erculea, a section of Ferrara designed by the architect Biagio Rossetti. It includes the Piazza Ariostea, now a public park, at the center of which stands a statue of Ludovico Ariosto, placed there in 1883.

Piazza Ariostea, Ferrara

In the afternoon, we visited the Palazzo Schifanoia to see the frescoes in the Sala dei Mesi. The past week has been the Settimana della Cultura, a program designed by the Italian government to promote all aspects of the arts, which for us meant free admission to this historic building and museum. The palace was commissioned by Alberto of Este in 1385 and added to and renovated over the years. The most famous and interesting room is the “Room of the Months” with its 15th century frescoes, about half of them restored to close to their former glory. The room’s walls have been divided into twelve panels, corresponding to the months; each panel is divided horizontally into three parts, the upper depicting pagan divinities, the middle astrological signs, and the lower scenes from everyday life, including the patron’s court. The iconography is complex, and even art historians who have studied these frescoes for years are not sure what each symbol is intended to represent. Other treasures in the Palazzo include the Sala degli Stucchi (Stuccoes Room) with its gilded and painted panelled ceiling, and the exquisite illuminated antiphonaries.

On our way home from the Palazzo, we stopped at a supermarket for groceries; then after we arrived home, we made tiramisù, using an authentic Italian recipe, which means the ingredients are measured in grams and such. My niece had made dinner reservations for us at a local eatery, so after setting the tiramisù in the refrigerator to chill, we rushed to get to the Trattoria Noemi by 8. I ordered the famous Ferrarese dish capellacci di zucca col burro e salvia (pasta stuffed with squash flavored with butter and sage), which was most delicious.