The Old Chapel: An Empty Symbol

By Melissa Mahoney.

The new Chapel is too large a subject to be treated of in as short a manner as would be necessary if undertaken here…. Suffice it to say that it is a source of great rejoicing to see such a fine structure really making its appearance where it is so greatly needed and where it will be so thoroughly appreciated. …The chapel building will furthermore be an honor to the place, and we hope that the end has come to the erection of cheap buildings on the College grounds, and that in future all may be substantial structures worthy of the State which builds them.  — The Index, 1885, Massachusetts Agricultural College

On a nondescript Wednesday in late October, someone rang Old Aggie for the first time in a year, her voice belting out across the University of Massachusetts Amherst in a pleasant baritone. The ringer swung her joyously, if irregularly, and for so long that students started to wonder who had died that was so important as to have two minutes of a bell pealing in their honor in the middle of classes. At last she quieted and grew still. The 42-bell carillon hung silent next to her, verdigris creeping over the copper. I have never heard the carillon ring; no one bothered to play it that day either.

The bell tower’s usual silence pervades the rest of the building, sweeping down the iron ladder and narrow stairwell to the top-floor auditorium where it languishes in the rafters of the impressive vaulted ceiling. Time clings to the walls and pulls at the light blue plaster, sending flakes skittering down the main stairwell to the ground floor. The chapel’s grey granite exterior trimmed in red ocher sandstone is a solid and elegantly convincing facade for the forgotten rooms within.

I have passed this dying giant nearly every day for three and a half years, and I have never known its purpose. At the campus store it features on postcards, mugs, holiday cards, and University stationary—the veritable emblem of UMass—but the building itself remains unused, an empty symbol. This year for Homecoming, the University offered tours through the building—hence the enthusiastic ringer—welcoming back not only its alumni, but its lost heritage. I could not miss the opportunity to enter the building which has been silent for too long.

I step through the front door with a tour group of about twenty, stirring up the fifteen years of disuse that has settled on the floor and windowsills in slender white strands and fluffy grey motes. The tour guide brings us up the wide ash stairs to the auditorium, passing original stained glass windows in orange and gold. The room is massive, or at least larger than one might suppose from the Chapel’s seemingly small exterior. Cracking grey tiles complement the peeling blue plaster on the walls, scuffed and smeared with a hundred years of humanity. Above, the Roman revival vaulted ceiling seems untouched by time. Once, when community service was owed to the University by everyone enrolled, a hundred students stained the timbers a rich nutmeg brown.  Now, while other surfaces crumble, those beams remain pristine; it is as if the wood remembers and cherishes the care it one received, the touch of a hundred hands.

The auditorium is the closest thing to a chapel that the Old Chapel ever was. When it was built in 1884, it was a nondenominational gathering place for the campus community, hosting speakers and graduations for crowds of three to six hundred people. Two rose windows allowed natural light to stream through from the north and south, an unnecessary habit of the architect, as the building is equipped with then-ground-breaking technology: electricity.

We climb another stairwell, narrow this time, and round a corner to yet more stairs, the steps steep and only four inches wide. Climbing sideways, I mount the landing where the dusty carillon keyboard sits and the rope pull for Old Aggie hangs slack. Though there are three and a half octaves of bells above me, I choose to plunk out Twinkle Twinkle Little Star in six round, copper tones on the carillon keyboard. Another tourist grabs hold of the thick rope and begins to ring Old Aggie—the second time in a year that I have heard the bell sing. The tour guide stops us from ringing the bells for too long lest we disrupt classes, but I don’t care. Let them hear! Help them remember these forgotten peals!

I wait my turn to climb the black ladder to the bell tower’s next and smaller level, which houses the tower’s green-and-brass clock works. Ascending to the next level via a smaller ladder, I find myself head-first in the bells. There is no place to stand here, only room to cling to the rungs as the open air whistles past my ears and circles the copper. Above and around, the 43 bells of the Old Chapel hang in perfect silence, waiting to be summoned to sing.

Descending the short ladder, the long ladder, the steep shallow steps, the narrow stairs, the wide stairwell, I find myself again on the ground level. Tourists slip out the open front door as we pass, their curiosity about the beautiful but abandoned building satiated. Elegantly carved double doors paneled in opaque glass and topped with colored panes lead us into the next room, a large classroom with four massive beams supporting the ceiling. Across one blackboard, names and messages have been scrawled in yellow and white chalk, most of them in memory of the late Band Director George Parks. Prior to losing its certificate of occupancy in 1996, the building had been used by the band for rehearsals, practice rooms, and hanging out when the rest of the burgeoning Music Department moved into the completed Fine Arts Center in 1974.

One chalk scrawl catches my attention as I pass: “I took French in this classroom in 1947.” As I walk into the next classroom, I try to imagine the blackboards without the painted-on music staves. I imagine rows of students in sweaters, skirts, and trousers studying Flaubert and Moliere, practicing their conjugations. The classrooms and adjoining staff offices had been built in 1935 as part of President Roosevelt’s New Deal initiative, and at the time housed the English and History Departments, which moved to Bartlett Hall when it was completed in 1960. The walls partition off what had once been the school’s library.

When the Old Chapel was built, the dusty door frames and whitewashed walls had been open from the eastern outer wall to the western outer wall. Library stacks formed up in rows, holding some 10,000 tomes, which grew to nearly 26,000 by 1905. A natural history display (more likely a ‘cabinet of curiosities’) stood somewhere among the stacks. Library offices occupied the north, and a reading room for students occupied the south.

Standing in that reading room more than a century later, I could imagine the smell of printed pages and polished wood, could hear the scratch of nibs on paper and the shuffle of hard-soled shoes. Where bookcases had lined the walls, chalkboards were now installed. Where portraits of prominent UMass officials had once hung above the stacks, the band’s sorority and fraternity seals had been painted with amateur strokes.

Though the building had been loved by the band and used by many departments, I felt that somehow they didn’t truly appreciate what they had, nor do the students who pass by the Chapel’s stone facade every day. To many the Old Chapel is beautiful but silent, useful as a landmark but nothing more.Though the exterior was renovated in 1998, the bell tower rebuilt, and the bells re-hung, the University would not put up funds to finish the job, and so the interior continues to decay. The Old Chapel is now nothing more than a Pelham granite and Longmeadow sandstone case for 43 silent bells—a historic piece of UMass slowly falling into oblivion.

If only that carillon could sing in human tones: 43 voices singing of nearly 130 years of existence, of the hands brushing stain on the wooden beams below, of young women and men carefully pronouncing “Je sonne les cloches”, of tomes and tubas and chalk words erased by a careless passing elbow; of a campus transformed from open rolling fields to tight corridors and asphalt; of a student population that neither knows nor cares of their decline.

Would they worry when their voices echo through spaces where buildings once were, or when they bounce back off buildings that weren’t there before? Would they mourn the loss of the 1900s waiting station from their youth, one of the earliest trolley stops in the area, demolished in the summer or 2012? Would they miss the answering low of cows from the long-gone livestock barns, now Herter Hall? Would they remember the way their voices had bounced off the old Drill Hall, the University’s first gymnasium,  razed for Bartlett Hall in 1957?

Do they worry that they too are headed the way of so many of the University’s legacy buildings—disrepair until demolition? Does their echo reach the new multi-million dollar facilities, the state-of-the-art laboratories, the shining Honors College buildings, the innovative group learning classrooms, the increased dormitory space? Or do those wizened peals evaporate in the air, spiraling out from the mouths of the bells until they have expanded into nothing?

I walk out the door of the Chapel and descend the steps, listening to the lonely creak of the hinges as the tour guide pulls it shut behind. I lean back and stare up at the spire, wondering when I’ll hear those bells again, when the building will be allowed to live again. For now, the Old Chapel is the empty symbol of a University that would rather demolish its past than save it, in the quest for a more prestigious future. It is a shell of what it once was, a locked vault of fallen plaster, unsung copper, and a University’s ignorance.

Bibliography

Massachusetts Agricultural College. “Editorial.” The Index. Vol. 16, No.1. Springfield, MA: Springfield Printing Company, 1885. 14. Print.

Natthorst, Richard. “Contemporaneous News Reports concerning the Beginnings of the Old Chapel Library.” The University of Massachusetts (Unofficial) Old Chapel LIbrary. N.p., n.d. Web. 06 Nov. 2012. <http://people.umass.edu/amae000/news.htm>.

“Old Chapel.” YouMass. Special Collections & University Archives, UMass Amherst Libraries, 18 Oct. 2012. Web. 06 Nov. 2012. <http://www.library.umass.edu/spcoll/youmass/doku.php?id=buildings:o:oldchapel>.

“Drill Hall.” YouMass. Special Collections & University Archives, UMass Amherst Libraries, 18 Oct. 2012. Web. 06 Nov. 2012.<http://www.library.umass.edu/spcoll/youmass/doku.php?id=buildings:d:drill_hall>.

An Afternoon at Hamilton Orchard

By Melissa Mahoney.

The signs began about a mile away in each direction, squatting along the side of Daniel Shay’s Highway on spindly wire legs. They were a few shades lighter than a Red Delicious, with rounded white lettering that read something friendly on each one. In the summer, the signs offered Fresh bluberries!; in the fall, Pick your own apples! Cortland and MacIntosh!; in the winter, Homemade pies!; and all year round, Breakfast with a view!.

My twin sister Hillary and I had passed these little red outbursts for three years on our regular drive from home in Wilmington, MA to school in Amherst, MA, never bothering to stop. We were too tired, or late setting out, or late getting back. We were busy getting degrees so we could drive past those signs one last time without ever even really seeing them. We had too much to do, and no time for apple trees and local charm.

The road rose up to meet the Hamilton Orchard sign on the shoulder and then rapidly declined after. It hoisted us up to the place, encouraging us to stop at this one human gathering among the autumn stands of trees and the silent spread-out houses, as if knowing we might never come back.

“Hey Hill,” I said after we passed Cider donuts!. It was a Sunday, and for once we had set out early. “Want to stop in there?”

“What, the orchard?” she said. “Sure, we always pass it.”

I slowed the car as we climbed the rise, and took a right at the blinking yellow light across the street that had tried to flag us down so many times. The road dipped beneath us as we left the Massachusetts highway system’s care, and Hillary yelped and grabbed the fishbowl off the floor of the car. Prospero, her beta fish, had come home with us for the weekend, and was prone to spilling on the back roads.

The road continued to climb past secluded split-level homes on the left, and an aging cement-post fence on the right. Huge maples hung branches dripping topaz and rubies overhead, while dust rising off the road gave a golden sparkle to the afternoon air—an intimacy of color unimaginable from the highway. Solemn pines and hemlocks gathered behind the vibrant groves, as if knowing the deciduous were the autumn’s stars, and that their time would come come winter. With our windows up, the only sound was the slow grind of asphalt to gravel, and the quiet slosh of Prospero’s bowl.

At the top of the rise, I turned left into the orchard’s unpaved parking lot. The wheels heaved down with a sigh, happy to be touching earth after the burn of the pavement.

A dog about the size of a large pumpkin stood in the middle of the lane. He didn’t budge as we approached. He stared from beneath a mop of shaggy black and white fur.

“Dog, move!” I yelled into the windshield. Two motorcyclists grinned into their leather gloves as I inched the car around the dog and into a parking spot.

“Whaddare you doing, puppy?” Hill asked the air in a baby voice. The dog couldn’t hear us, but Hill tried anyway. She has always been obsessed with dogs, but since our family is mostly allergic, she’d had to make due with fish.

Hillary put Prospero back on the floor of the passenger seat and we stepped out into the crisp autumn air. The parking lot and the Apple Shack, the orchard’s shop, were perched on a ridge that allowed for incredible views: the orchard fell away in rows before our feet and tumbled into the round, autumn-hued heaps of the Berkshires in the distance. The clouds had gathered quickly, chilling the air so rapidly that an apple-scented mist played around the ankles of those among the trees. Visitors lounged on picnic tables outside the Shack, sipping hot cider while their bushel bags slouched on the benches next to them.

The Apple Shack had a rustic exterior with two doors: one labeled “IN” and one labeled “OUT” in white-and-red above the door frames. Tiered rows of orange pumpkins sat stark against the dark-grain wood siding, as if apple-picking were a spectator sport, and they had come to cheer on the pickers from the bleachers.

We entered the Shack through the “IN”-door, its aged spring giggling as the door swung open and then shut behind us with a happy snap. Visitors meandered through the small shop, taking in the warmth and the smells. The air itself seemed to have been mulled from cider spices, as our noses filled with cinnamon, cloves, allspice, nutmeg, and brown sugar.

A vast collection of apple-themed oven mitts engulfed the right wall and the partition to the bakery. A young employee in the corner made apple cider donuts, sending the dough skittering into boiling oil and then coaxing the baked donut onto a conveyor belt that deposited it in a large bowl. Containers of finished donuts lined the back wall, sorted by how the donuts were garnished: cinnamon sugar, white sugar, or simply plain. Waist-high tables supported baskets of apple tarts, whoopie pies—chocolate, red velvet, and pumpkin—and mounds of fudge.

Further along the back wall, coolers chilled down fresh cider by the pint, quart, and gallon. Repurposed bookshelves held homemade candy, boxes of mulling spices, and local soaps along with a few children’s books scattered across the tops.

There was something invariably human here, something comforting in seeing my donut dusted with sugar before my eyes, or an apple tart sliding from oven, to box, to bakery counter. Except for the calorie count, there was nothing significant about that table full of deserts; yet as we gathered up donuts, whoopie pies, and mulling spices, time slowed to the leisurely shuffle of feet on worn floorboards and chilled fingers finding warmth in hot cider. I felt a kind of joy bubbling up from a place I’d forgotten about among life’s hustle, a place that loved autumn, and honest work, and small moments.

We meandered to the very back of the Shack, where an addition had been put on. One large step separated the two parts of the building, as the addition had been built at a slightly higher level. A wood-burning stove hummed merrily in the corner, giving heat to the elderly locals and families lining four picnic tables along the wall. The addition served as a kind of cafeteria, with a large window that displayed an expansive view of the orchard and the mountains beyond. To the left, griddles lined the walls behind a counter filled with sausages and pancakes, with a bored cook pacing in between.

“Breakfast served ‘til 3pm,” Hill said, holding up a menu full of eggs, meats, carbs, and 1970s fonts.

“‘Breakfast with a view!’ We found it,” I laughed. “Do you want to get something?”

“Nah,” she said, glancing at her watch over an armful of goods. “I’ve got donuts and a whoopie pie.”

We drifted back through the crowd to the shop’s “OUT”-door, the large letters loudly reminding us we had finished the loop and there was nothing left to explore. Pre-picked bushels of Cortlands and MacIntoshes sat expectantly on wooden crates near the register, which only accepted cash.

“Three and three and three and four, thats thirteen dollars please,” the woman at the register said, counting up our purchases. Hill and I fumbled through our wallets, divvying up the cost by who had the most small bills to contribute. We have a tendency to not carry cash, and it always makes us a little flustered when its required.

Together we exited through the “OUT”-door and took up a picnic table overlooking the orchard. Hillary peeled the Cellophane from her red velvet whoopie pie, and I went for a cinnamon sugar cider donut. The sugar gave a satisfying crunch with each bite before melting and mixing with the Cortland flavors on my tongue. I could taste the cider syrup that had been swirled in the yellow batter and fried to dense, cakey perfection.

The clouds had thickened during our time in the shop, muting the foliage that dotted the far hills and giving the air an extra crispness that nipped my fingers. As I cleared my throat, thoughts of the homework left undone, the emails left unsent began to seep into my mind, quieting the joy I had felt before.

The small scruffy dog from the parking lot wandered over, enticed by our purchases but ignoring our outstretched hands, our “Hi, puppy!” and “Who’s a good boy?”. It snuffled beneath our table, totally uninterested in our affection but avidly seeking our scraps. A slight breeze blew the aroma of baking apple tarts down the hill and into the trees, leaving behind the smell of wet leaves and the deepening chill.

“Want to get going?” I said at last, licking my fingers for sugary crumbs and warmth.

“Yeah,” Hill said. “I don’t want Prospy to get too cold.”

We got back in the car and drove out of the parking lot, following the crumbling road back to Route 202, Daniel Shay’s Highway. The thrum of the tires slowly but surely lulled whatever had awakened in my spirit back to that forgotten place, a place of time like molasses and pastries like piles of leaves, of simple pleasures and gravity that rounds mountains, a place with a sign like a Red Delicious and patient stand of pumpkins. As we pulled into the parking lot at UMass, the smell of cider lingered until we opened the doors. Cold air rushed in, and with it came the numbing chill of our regularly scheduled lives.